Editorial note: Historical interview published on 1 March 2023. Figures, roles and opinions refer to the context of that text, not to a verification of current circumstances. Statements about Winerim are the interviewee's testimony, not a product or results guarantee.
“I believe sommeliers should make the customer's dining experience something they will remember for a long time and want to repeat.”
Jorge Soto, sommelier at Cocinandos*
Anyone who knows Cocinandos knows that it is perhaps the foremost expression of avant-garde cooking in León. Always, however, without setting aside its roots, tradition or the land that saw them grow and become who they are. The historical text states that the care and dedication Juanjo and Yolanda had put into every dish for more than 20 years led them to receive their first Michelin star in 2018. And every dish on their menu deserves a pairing to match, which is why they have a great sommelier in charge of their cellar: Jorge Soto.
Jorge Soto has devoted his whole life to hospitality. His parents ran a traditional tavern in a village near León and, from a very young age, barely 15, he helped in the family business. They instilled in him the great values that, at the time of the interview, he continued to uphold as a professional: respect for tradition and for doing things well. At 19, he began working at one of León's legendary bars, bar Los Pelayos. During his time there, his interest in wine began to take shape, and from there he moved to Restaurante Vivaldi, where he combined restaurant service with various courses in the world of sommellerie. The text recounts that while Jorge was part of the Vivaldi team, they received their first Michelin star.
Some time later, Vinoteca Santa Clara opened in León, a place ahead of its time. A business like it might seem commonplace at the time of the interview, but back then there was nothing like it in the city. There he began to develop his potential as a sommelier and continued studying oenology. In time, he became a teacher on the courses offered at the wine bar.
After more than 10 years running his own business, Jorge had taken charge of the cellar at Cocinandos, sharing all his knowledge in a way adapted to each diner's tastes and preferences. Personal advice tailored to each customer's needs, something that can only be achieved after so many years devoted to the profession. Those visiting León's historic Casa del Peregrino, a building dating from 1750, could enjoy the finest dishes and wines that this great team offered every day.
We wanted Jorge to bring us a little closer to the Cocinandos cellar, tell us about his experience and vision of the world of sommellerie, show us the keys to his selections and explain what Winerim contributes to his daily work. In this Winerim Academy interview: Jorge Soto, sommelier at Cocinandos (León). The distinctions mentioned in the introduction belong to restaurants, not to a personal accreditation of the interviewee.
Editorial note on the date: The historical text places Cocinandos' first Michelin star in 2018. A Universidad de León article dated 16 January 2018 states that it was awarded in 2009. The original statement is retained above with this discrepancy made explicit; it is not a personal accreditation of the interviewee.
1. When did your interest in the world of wine begin?
Quite a few years ago, when I began working at a legendary bar in León. When my boss at the time let me try some of the wines he was enjoying with his friends, or wines he was thinking of adding to the bar's selection, he would ask my opinion. That was when I began to wonder how so many things could be said about a wine.
2. What qualities should a good sommelier have?
I don't think you need any special quality; you simply have to be passionate about your profession, want to keep learning and be consistent. I should say that I think these are the things you need in any other profession to do it well.
3. What is the most unusual place where you have organised or attended a wine tasting?
Without a doubt, it was a tasting held at a social club in Madrid, where the same wines were tasted in different glasses to analyse how the glasses influence the wines.
4. What are the current trends in the world of sommellerie?
I don't think there is any particular direction to follow. It depends a great deal on where you work, the type of customer and the customs of the place or country. What I always believe sommeliers should do is try to make the customer's dining experience something they will remember for a long time and want to repeat.
5. Tell us about your favourite wines: a white, a red, a rosé and a sparkling wine.
For me, there is no favourite wine, and all wines can become favourites, because I believe wine is something to share and should go with a pleasant evening, a good setting and good company. Any wine, even if it is not the best, can become your favourite.
“We must bear in mind that wine generally complements food, and a wine should not be more ‘powerful’ than the food.”
6. What should someone with little experience of wine look for when choosing one to accompany their meal? In other words, what basic rule or rules should a diner know to choose a good wine?
Clearly, personal tastes are very important here, but as a basic rule we must bear in mind that wine generally complements food. And a wine should not be more “powerful” than the food, but rather accompany the dish and help you appreciate its qualities. [Editorial fragment in the original: “Question 1.” No meaning is attributed to this fragment.]
7. Debunk a myth about wine and its pairing with food.
Without a doubt, the biggest myth is white wine for fish and red wine for meat, a classic. Depending on the type of meat or fish, one wine or another will work better, with colour being less important.
8. What requirements must a wine meet to be a good wine?
Personal tastes have a great influence here. It is true that if the qualities that characterise a wine appeal to most people, it will be considered a good wine. But for me, a good wine is one enjoyed in company that gives you the feeling of an unforgettable evening.
9. What steps should we follow to taste a wine at an amateur level?
The steps are the same at any level. Someone with less experience or just beginning to taste wine should first identify whether the aromas are clean and pleasant, and whether the wine on the palate is balanced, enveloping and persistent.
10. The wine that has surprised you most recently.
Ultreia “Cabo de las tormentas”
11. The best value-for-money wine you have tasted.
Massuria
“By using Winerim, I can discover new wines and learn what other sommeliers think.”
12. A traditional paper wine list or a digital wine list?
A digital wine list.
13. How does Winerim help you in your work?
By using Winerim, I can discover new wines and learn what other sommeliers think.
14. Finally, a piece of advice for any wine lover.
Never stop appreciating and valuing things done well, because that way we will have ever better wines.