“There is growing interest in indigenous varieties and in reviving forgotten traditions.”
Periko Ortega, chef and sommelier at ReComiendo
Editorial note: an interview recovered from Winerim's archive, originally published on 21 February 2025. Roles, career references, relative dates, awards, recommendations and wine descriptions belong to that publication, not to a check of the current situation. Statements about Winerim are the interviewee's testimony at the time, not a guarantee of features or results.
In the world of fine dining, few chefs manage to capture the essence of tradition and bring it to a level of innovation as Periko Ortega does. Born in Córdoba, he comes from a family connected to gastronomy and olive oil. Perhaps that is why he has always focused on passionately conveying the flavours of his homeland.
With extensive culinary training, Periko has worked at renowned restaurants such as Mugaritz, Tragabuches and Café de París, where he was part of the team that earned a Michelin star. His talent led him to head important gastronomic venues in Córdoba, such as the Palacio del Bailío, where his restaurant Senzone received international recognition.
In 2014, he opened ReComiendo, his own restaurant, where cooking rooted in memories merges with the most cutting-edge techniques. His commitment to excellence has earned him numerous accolades, such as the Sol Repsol and recognition in the Michelin Guide.
In this interview for Sommelier Corner, we will talk with Periko Ortega about his view of sommellerie, wine and his relationship with Winerim, exploring his unique way of pairing memories, tradition and innovation at the table.
1. When did your interest in the world of wine begin?
My interest in wine began many, many years ago at Café de París in Málaga, when I was working with José Carlos García. I remember that after service, while I waited in the kitchen reading a book until the last customers left, Cristian would give me some of the remaining wines to taste. In those moments I discovered that wine was much more than a drink: it was history, culture and passion in a bottle.
2. What qualities should a good sommelier have?
A good sommelier should have a deep knowledge of wine, but also great sensitivity in conveying it. They should be curious, always willing to learn and try new things. They should also be a great communicator, able to tell stories that bring each glass to life. And, of course, humility is key: wine is not a world of absolute truths, but of personal experiences.
3. What is the most unusual place where you have organised or attended a wine tasting?
Without a doubt, in the middle of a vineyard in Moriles Altos, on a tower six metres high, looking out over the whole vineyard and surrounded by good friends. The breeze, the aromas of the earth, the sunset colouring the sky in warm tones and a glass in my hand made that experience unforgettable.
4. What are the current trends in sommellerie?
There are several very interesting trends. On the one hand, the rise of natural and artisan-made wines, which reflect the terroir and the work of small producers. There is also growing interest in indigenous varieties and in reviving forgotten traditions. Another key aspect is the digitalisation of sommellerie, with interactive wine lists and advanced management systems such as Winerim.
5. Recommend a white, a red, a rosé, a sparkling wine, a fortified wine and a dessert wine
- White: Toscalización from Bodegas El Monte. A distinctive white that reflects the soul of the south. With balanced acidity and a silky feel on the palate, it is perfect for pairing with seafood and oily fish. Its aromatic complexity, with notes of stone fruit and light mineral touches, makes it unforgettable.
- Red: Chateau de Pibarnon. A wine with character and depth. From Bandol, in French Provence, this red combines power and elegance, with notes of black fruit, spices and a subtle touch of leather. Perfect for red meats and traditional stews.
- Rosé: Rocalima. Although technically not a rosé, it is closer to an Orange Wine from Viñedos Verticales. Its extended skin maceration gives it structure and fascinating aromatic depth, with notes of dried flowers and a subtle saline background. It is ideal for spiced dishes and mature cheeses.
- Sparkling: Umbretum 1810 from Bodegas Salado. An Andalusian sparkling wine that breaks the mould. Made with indigenous grapes, it has fine, elegant bubbles, with notes of apple, toast and almonds and an echo of the local wines. Fantastic as an aperitif or accompanying oysters and sushi.
- Fortified: Singular Cask from Ximenium. A wine that is pure history in a bottle. Aged under a veil of flor and with oxidation controlled by time, it offers impressive complexity with nuances of nuts, caramel and salinity. It pairs perfectly with intensely flavoured dishes such as seafood stews or blue cheeses.
- Dessert: Dulce de Invierno from Vivanco. A beautifully balanced sweet wine, with refreshing acidity that keeps it from being cloying. With notes of honey, tropical fruit and a long, silky finish, it is the ideal choice to accompany creamy desserts or foie gras.
“A good wine should be balanced, have personality and tell a story. It is not just about being technically perfect, but about conveying something, having soul.”
6. What should someone with little experience of wine look for when choosing one to accompany their meal? In other words, what basic rules should a diner know to choose a good wine?
A basic rule is harmony: light wines for mild dishes and more powerful wines for dishes with intense flavours. It is also important to consider acidity and sweetness. A white with good acidity can balance fatty dishes, while a red with structured tannins works well with meat. And, above all, taste and enjoy without fear of getting it wrong.
7. Debunk a myth about wine and pairing it with food
One of the most widespread myths is that red wine should only be drunk with meat and white wine with fish. This is not always true. A light red with good acidity can pair perfectly with oily fish, and an aged white can be the ideal complement to white meats or even stews.
8. What requirements must a wine meet to be a good wine?
A good wine should be balanced, have personality and tell a story. It is not just about being technically perfect, but about conveying something, having soul. A wine that moves you is always a good wine.
9. Steps we should follow to taste wine at an amateur level
- Appearance: Observe the colour, density and clarity.
- Nose: Identify primary aromas (fruit, flowers), secondary aromas (fermentation, ageing) and tertiary aromas (development in the bottle).
- Palate: Assess acidity, tannins, body and persistence.
- Pairing: Imagine which dishes it could go with.
10. The wine that has surprised you most recently
“Las Alas de Frontonio La Tejera” by Fernando Mora. A wine that challenges convention and demonstrates the potential of its terroir.
11. The best value-for-money wine you have tasted
Moriles Viejo en Rama from El Monte. A wine that holds the essence of the land and offers impressive complexity for its price.
“You have to keep up with technology, and I am in love with the Winerim system.”
12. A traditional paper wine list or a digital wine list?
You have to keep up with technology, and I am in love with the Winerim system. It allows dynamic, up-to-date management, but without losing the essence of a good wine selection.
13. How does Winerim help you in your work?
Winerim makes cellar management and updating the wine list easier, allowing us to optimise inventories and improve the customer experience with detailed information and recommended pairings.
14. Finally, a piece of advice for any wine lover
You learn every day, you learn through practice, and practice is soooo much fun. There is no need to be afraid of trying new things or making mistakes. Wine is an open door to culture, history and pleasure. And do not forget that life is too short to drink bad wines. Cheers! And Mucho Power!