Marsala

What it is

Marsala is made in and around the province of Trapani, at the western tip of Sicily, around the town that gives it its name. Depending on the type it shows notes of nuts, caramel, figs, honey and spice, with a salty, oxidative edge in older wines. It is classified by colour (Oro, Ambra, Rubino), by sweetness (Secco, Semisecco, Dolce) and by ageing, from Fine up to Vergine.

How it is made

It is mainly made from local white grapes such as Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia, while Rubino uses red grapes like Perricone or Nero d'Avola. The wine is fortified with grape spirit and, depending on the type, may be sweetened with concentrated must or, for Ambra, cooked must. Marsala Vergine, also called Soleras, allows none of these additions, is dry and is usually aged for a long time in wood.

What to serve it with

• Aged cheeses (Parmigiano, pecorino)
• Almonds, olives and nuts
• Cannoli and almond pastries
• Dark chocolate
• Zabaglione desserts

On the wine list

• List the type (Vergine, Superiore, Fine) and sweetness level: a dry Vergine and a sweet Fine are very different wines.
• A dry Marsala Vergine by the glass can be an unusual aperitif with almonds or cheese, far from its cooking-wine image.
• Being fortified, it usually keeps well for a few weeks once opened if stoppered, which makes by-the-glass service easy.