Moscatel de Setúbal

What it is

It is made on the Setúbal Peninsula, south of Lisbon, around the Arrábida hills and Palmela. Young, it is intensely floral and citrusy, with hints of orange peel and raisin; with long ageing it develops caramel, date, walnut and spice notes. Its distinctive feature is extended skin contact after fortification, which gives it very marked aromatic concentration.

How it is made

It is made mainly from Muscat of Alexandria, known locally as Moscatel de Setúbal, and there is also a Moscatel Roxo version from a pink-skinned variant. Fermentation is stopped by adding grape spirit, which preserves natural sweetness, and the wine usually then macerates on its skins for several months. It is then aged oxidatively in wood; some labels state the average age of the wine.

What to serve it with

• Crème caramel and egg-based desserts
• Portuguese convent sweets
• Orange or nut tarts
• Blue cheeses
• Foie gras

On the wine list

• It works well by the glass in the dessert section: being fortified, it keeps for several weeks once opened.
• Show whether it is young or carries an age statement, as the style moves from fresh and floral to deep and spicy.
• Served too warm it feels heavy; slightly chilled, its acidity and aroma come through.