Tokaji Aszú

What it is

Tokaji Aszú comes from the Tokaj region in north-eastern Hungary, whose wine landscape is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is made mainly from Furmint, a high-acid grape that balances the sugar, and Hárslevelű. In the glass it shows dried apricot, candied orange, honey, quince and spice, with a long, fresh finish. That tension between sweetness and acidity is its defining trait.

How it is made

Aszú berries, shrivelled by Botrytis cinerea, are picked by hand one by one and macerated in must, fermenting wine or base wine from the region. The wine then ferments slowly and is aged in barrel, often in the traditional underground cellars. The label may state puttonyos, the traditional measure of the proportion of aszú berries and of sweetness.

What to serve it with

• Foie gras
• Blue cheeses
• Apricot or peach tarts
• Custard and caramel desserts
• Aged cheeses

On the wine list

• On the wine list it is usually shown with the vintage and, where the label gives it, the puttonyos, a reference many guests recognise.
• It works well by the glass in small pours; it is often sold in half-litre bottles, handy for sharing at the table.
• Avoid lumping it together with other Tokaji such as Szamorodni or Eszencia, which are different styles.