Vin Jaune

What it is

Vin jaune ('yellow wine') is a traditional dry white from the Jura, in eastern France, made solely from the Savagnin grape. Its hallmark is long ageing in barrel under a veil of yeast, similar to that of fino sherry, but without any added alcohol. In the glass it shows a golden colour, aromas of walnut, curry, spice and apple, pronounced acidity and a long finish. It is made in several Jura appellations, such as Arbois, Côtes du Jura and L'Étoile, and it is the only wine of the Château-Chalon appellation; well kept, it can develop for decades.

How it is made

The Savagnin is fermented as a dry white wine and then aged in oak barrels that are not topped up as the wine evaporates; a veil of yeast forms on the surface, limiting contact with air and giving the wine its character. The rules require prolonged ageing under the veil and do not allow it to be sold until more than six years after the harvest. It is bottled in the clavelin, a traditional 62 cl bottle reserved for this wine.

What to serve it with

• Aged Comté cheese
• Chicken with vin jaune and morels
• Mildly spiced curries
• Walnuts and other nuts
• Fish in creamy sauces

On the wine list

• Make clear on the list that it is a dry white aged under flor, not a sweet wine: the name and the golden colour can mislead.
• Thanks to its oxidative character it usually keeps well once opened, so it can be offered by the glass in small pours, for example with a cheese board.
• Place it next to fino and other flor-aged wines or in a Jura section rather than among young whites, and tell guests it is an intensely flavoured wine.