Old Vines Red Wine

What it is

'Viñas viejas' or 'cepas viejas' is a label term highlighting that a wine comes from long-established vineyards; elsewhere it appears as 'old vines', 'vieilles vignes' or 'vinhas velhas'. In Spain it is mostly associated with Garnacha from Aragón and the Sierra de Gredos, Tinta de Toro and Mencía from Bierzo, often from bush vines farmed without irrigation. These vineyards are credited with wines of greater concentration and depth, although the final style depends on the area, the grape and the winemaking. What sets it apart is not a cellar technique but its origin: the value of an old vineyard that has been kept rather than grubbed up.

How it is made

There is no specific way of making it: it is defined by the age of the vineyard, not by method, and it can range from unoaked reds to wines with long barrel ageing. Old vines usually produce less fruit per plant and are often hand-harvested. In general there is no common legal definition of how old a vine must be to be called old; some regions and producer associations have started to set their own criteria, but on most labels the term is at the producer's discretion.

What to serve it with

• Grilled red meat
• Roast lamb
• Game
• Meat stews
• Aged cheeses

On the wine list

• If the winery states the vineyard's age, add it to the list: the term on its own usually has no fixed legal meaning, and the figure adds credibility.
• It is a good story to tell at the table (vineyard, grape and landscape); it usually sells better by the bottle, with a short explanation from the server.
• Don't present it as a guarantee of superior quality: vine age adds character, but it does not replace the region, the vintage or the winemaking.