Clay-vessel Wine

What it is

For centuries the clay tinaja was the usual winemaking vessel across much of Spain, especially in La Mancha, Valdepeñas, Montilla-Moriles and Extremadura, where it is known as vino de pitarra. Today many winemakers are bringing it back for whites, reds and skin-contact whites. Clay is porous and adds no aromas the way oak does, so the wines tend to show direct fruit, good texture and a slightly rustic profile. Its Portuguese counterpart is vinho de talha from Alentejo.

How it is made

The grapes ferment in clay jars of various sizes, often with indigenous yeasts; for whites the skins may be left in contact with the juice, giving amber or orange-hued wines. Clay allows a slight exchange of oxygen without imparting wood flavours. Some tinajas are lined on the inside, while others are used as bare clay.

What to serve it with

• Aged Manchego cheese
• Bean and chickpea stews
• Pisto and roasted vegetables
• Game in escabeche
• Iberian cured meats

On the wine list

• It usually works well by the glass for curious guests: one line about the clay jar and the region is often enough to sell it.
• State on the wine list whether it is white, red or skin-contact, as the style varies a great deal from one wine to another.
• Avoid serving it too cold: a few degrees warmer usually brings out more texture and expression.